Close up: Alexander McQueen at Paris Fashion Week Spring 2017

The really great thing about Alexander McQueen? Regardless of what any other designer is doing - this, at a time where the Vetements effect is a crack that's still spidering out to several design houses - Sarah Burton continues to do 'McQueen', and the thing about that is, no matter what feels zeitgeist-y, it still works and it still feels up-to-the-minute relevant. This was a collection that delivered all the McQueen hallmarks, and then some; it was a show that made the more romantic houses in Paris look uptight; and other more rock 'n' roll houses look a bit, well, thin on the ground when it comes to ideas and execution.



Her starting point was the wild and magical coastal landscapes of the Shetland Islands. Inside the L'Orangerie du Sénat, in the lush grounds of the Jardin du Luxembourg, her runway was a hilly terrain covered in layers of rugs woven in those coastal scenes, they were hand-sewn taatit rugs, traditionally given as wedding gifts (when two marry, they are sewn together to become one). She was also thinking about the island’s famous knitwear – a best-selling category at McQueen, and this season's offering didn't disappoint with artisanal-looking hand crafted Fair Isle knits whipstitched together, and elsewhere cropped sweaters with puffy sleeves.



Burton opened with a series of long-sleeved maxi dresses in fine Shetland lace layered with black leather bralets embellished in silver studs and trimmed in jingling bells; those bralets also toughened up daintily floral printed prairie dresses with sweet puff sleeves, as did the steel toe-capped and studded combat boots that came with everything, and those shrunken black leather jackets with streams of jet bead tassels or otherwise decorated in colourful rose embroideries with zip-on/zip-off peplums.

A nod to Savile Row, where Lee McQueen honed his craft, came through in plaid suiting comprising cropped flares, mini kilts and sharp tailored blazers, slashed and panelled with lace. Her finale gowns were stand out. They came in all-black and embroidered in strings of jet, or “shipwrecked” styles in ivory silk dipped in silver sequins with shredded frothy trains. What young starlet wouldn't look here first when it comes to event dressing? This was a stand-out collection with attitude, one that raised the bar on craftsmanship, integrity and all-out desire.










Comments

Popular Posts